Inrush Current Limiters 32mm 2ohms 25A by Ametherm

This little $8 part did the trick and saved me a bunch of money. My Hayward Aqua Rite system stopped generating chlorine without any signs of problems. Called Hayward support. What a useless waste of my time. All they did was send links to the user manuals and FAQ's on general use. They also said to contact a local pool repair business to troubleshoot my problem. That would not be cheap. I took the salt cell to Leslies to have it checked and it tested out OK. They tested my water and said the nitrates were too high and I needed to drain the pool to get the Aqua Rite system to work properly. What a bunch of bull. I bought nitrate test strips and found the nitrate level was on the high end but nothing near an amount that would require me to drain the pool. I started dumping liquid chlorine in the pool to try and stay ahead of the algae. In the meantime the lights went out on the control box. The display was working, showing salt level etc. but no power light, generating light etc. After several weeks, gallons and gallons of chlorine, and algae growth I had enough and decided to buy a whole new system online. While checking prices I came across INYOPOOLS.COM and read some of their info on troubleshooting the AquaRite system. They suggested replacing the current limiter. That did the trick! The system works better than before. I always had to set the level at 100% but now I can adjust it to a lower level and still maintain a high level of chlorine. As others suggested, when you go to replace this current limiter, cut the old one off leaving enough of the 'legs' sticking up to solder the new one to. A regular soldering iron worked fine for me. No need for anything special. The new limiter sat up high where it touch the cover so I just bent it over a bit and the cover fits fine. You might cut the new tabs a little shorter or bend them before you solder if you are afraid of breaking it off. This little part was well worth the money and saved me a ton of money. Note that my system stopped generating chlorine before the POWER, GENERATING etc. lights went out. You might want to replace this part if you have unexplained low chlorine levels and the lights still work. For $8, what do you have to loose...

Update 12/15: My fix lasted for one season. Guessing that the condition that caused the part to fail the first time still exists. This time I'll drop the money into a new board. That said, I don't regret buying this part and applying the fix.Original Review: Like the others, I used this to repair my Aquarite chlorine generator. It indeed takes a lot of power in your soldering iron to remove the old part. The part is soldered into a heat sink that a pencil iron can't handle. I ended up committing to a 100W Weller gun type iron to melt and suck up the copious amount of solder on the original board. As others have documented here and on YouTube, it can take a good 45 minutes or more to clear the old part. Take small bits at a time so you won't damage the board. Soldering in the new part was quick and easy. LEDs came back and chlorine generation was working perfectly. This and the soldering iron were ~$150 less than buying a new board, and I scored a new iron out of the deal.

It worked to resolve the 'No Power' issue with my Aquarite Chlorine Generator Board. The pins were slightly wider than the original part, but I was able to carefully bend one of them inward and solder it.Following some other advice I read on this repair, I snipped off the old part, leaving a few mm of post exposed, and soldered to those posts. Unless you have a heavy-duty soldering iron, it is impossible the desolder the original part.One thing I did not do but I wish I did was to trim down the posts on this part by about half. It is quite tall and the cover touches it and cannot be screwed all the way back in.You must remove the original board to solder on a flat surface. I attempted to do it without removing the board, but, unless you have some helping hands, you can't get a good solder on a vertical surface.

After researching on amazon and on pool forums, I bought this part to see if it would be a (relatively) simple fix for our Aquarite salt chlorine generator.You can read other posts for more details, but in short it worked. I had not soldered anything in probably 20 years, but I was up for trying. My main tip is NOT to try to desolder the existing part. Instead, use a fine, small drill bit and carefully bore it out. I tried for at least 45 minutes with a 60 watt soldering iron and had not made much progress. I had read somewhere that someone recommended drilling the component out, and it works very well and fast. Putting in the part is very easy if you know the basics about soldering. It's well worth the effort to see if this fixes the issue. Check YouTube for a how-to post.

Quick Fix - My current limiter quit after a week of thunderstorms. Assuming that was the cause I wanted a replaceable fix in case it happened again, so I cut off the old limiter as high as possible before it expands into the disc and soldered on the male ends of 14-16 gauge blue electrical slide fasteners bent to 30 degrees to allow clearance for the cover plate. I then soldered the female ends onto the new limiter and slide it into place. Works fine. Trim the excess blue insulation off of the male connectors so that they will seat closer to the board. The females don't need to be trimmed.

This item was hard to install as I'm not proficient in soldering. For those that can solder, this is a very inexpensive way to repair the Hayward GLX-PCB-RITE Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Hayward Goldline AquaRite Salt Chlorination Systems. To determine if the limiter is defective, look at the limiter and see if there is burned area around the prongs.

Used to fix Salt Water Pool Chlorine generator. This is the second time in 5 years this part has gone bad. One tip, cut off the leads of the old one 1/2" above the board and just solder the new item to the old leads. This way you do not have to try and remove the old leads from the board. This will prevent damaging the board and also lets you complete the repair without removing the board.